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Energy Performance Certificates tell you how energy efficient a building is. It will give your property a rating from A (very efficient) to G (inefficient), similar to the ratings seen on appliances.

These certificates will give an indication of how costly a building could be to heat and light, and what its carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions are.

It also highlights cost-effective ways to achieve a better rating and what this new rating would be.

Once issued, Energy Performance Certificates are valid for 10 years.

1. How can I get an Energy Performance Certificate?

First of all, it's good to check if your property already has an Energy Performance Certificate. If you have none, to get one, an energy assessor will need to visit every room in your property during a 60-minute survey.

Energy Performance Certificates can cost up to £150, so you may want to get some quotes and shop around for the best deal. You might need a commercial or non-domestic Energy Performance Certificate which cost more.

Check if you have an Energy Performance Certificate on

Find an energy assessor on

An assessor might take notes of the following

  • size of the living space

  • construction of the property (incl. age and materials)

  • any insulation (wall, roof and floor)

  • lighting (fixed fittings only)

  • heating system and heating controls

  • head and shoulder inspection of any loft spaces

An assessor might also ask you

  • when was the property built

  • when were any extensions and conversions made

  • if you have converted the loft into a room and when was the work carried out

  • does the property have any cavity wall insulation?

  • have you added any double-glazing windows or doors very recently?

  • if the property has any under-floor insulation. Is this visible or do you have the receipts for this work

  • if you have documented evidence for upgrades or improvements to changes that aren't visible

  • are you on a single or double electricity meter

2. How can I improve my property's energy rating?

Some energy efficiency measures may be easy and low cost to install. Consider putting these in place before your survey is conducted.

There may be other longer term measures which may be more expensive. These are still worth considering over time or combining with other renovation work.

  • Lighting

    An energy assessor will check the number of light fittings and low-energy light bulbs in the property. Compact fluorescent, LED type or normal florescent tube type count as low-energy light bulbs.

    The survey will only include fixed fittings.

    We'd recommend that you only use low-energy lighting, because it can save energy on a day-to-day basis when the property is in use.

    If you're unable to update your properties lighting all at once, prioritise areas where the lights are on most often. This includes external lighting. Use automatic lighting controls, such as light or motion sensors, where possible.

    Read our factsheet on lighting controls.

  • Insulation

    The energy assessor will carry out a head-and-shoulder inspection of your loft space where relevant and possible. This is to check how much loft insulation is present and if it's laid on the joists or affixed to the rafters.

    The current recommendation is to have 270mm of loft insulation laid at the joists.

    If your loft is easy to access, doesn't have damp problems, and there isn't a flat roof, it should be easy to insulate. You can do this yourself if you're competent in DIY or you can use a professional installer.

    The assessor will also check the building for cavity walls as well as any added of floor insulation. These may not be easy to see, so if these areas had any work done it might be best to hand over documented evidence.

    Read our factsheet on draught proofing and insulation.

  • Windows

    The energy assessor will take a visual inspection of the windows on the property. This is to determine if it's single, double, triple glazed or has secondary glazing.

    If there is double-glazing, they check if installation was before or after 2002. If your property has a conservatory, the assessor will need to inspect it.

    It's worth checking your property for draughts. When your property is draught-free, your heating system doesn’t have to work so hard.

    Draught proofing can be a cheap and effective way of saving energy that will also improve the comfort of your property for guests.

    Read our factsheet on draught proofing and insulation.

  • Heating and heating controls

    The heating system makes up the largest part of the calculation of your Energy Performance Certificate. If you use boilers, have the model name, number, and the boiler handbook ready for the energy assessor.

    The energy assessor also takes note of the time and heat controls. These include room thermostats and thermostatic radiator valves fitted in your property.

    They'll also list any other form of heating such as coal, log, or gas / coal-effect fire.

    Heating can account for more than 40% of total energy use.

    For self-catering properties, you have little direct control over the heating when guests are in. So, it is important you provide guests with clear information on how to use heating controls and make best use of any automatic controls.

    Read our factsheet on heating and cooling settings.

3. What should I do with an Energy Performance Certificate?

You're legally required to affix your Energy Performance Certificate within the property. Building standards guidance recommends placing it in the boiler or meter cupboard.

Keep a copy with other legal papers relating to your property.

You will need to state of your EPC rating in any advertisements or promotional materials. This applies for both print and online ads.

You can include this for existing promotions when you renew or update the content, including your:

  • brochures

  • media advertisements

  • website

  • online business listings with booking platforms

4. Further advice on improving your Energy Perform

Related links